Balenciaga SA
TypeSubsidiary (société anonyme)
IndustryFashion
Predecessor
  • Balenciaga y Compañía
  • EISA, S.A.
FoundedSan Sebastián, Spain, 1919 (1919)
FounderCristóbal Balenciaga
Headquarters
Paris, France
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Number of employees
1,325 (2019)
ParentKering
Websitebalenciaga.com

Balenciaga SA (/bəˌlɛnsiˈɑːɡə/ bə-LEN-see-AH-gə[1]) is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1919 by the Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga in San Sebastian, Spain. Balenciaga produces ready-to-wear footwear, handbags, and accessories, and licenses its name and branding to Coty for fragrances.[2] It is currently owned by the French corporation Kering.

History

Dresses designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga on display in Florence, Italy

Founding to 1980

Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, and expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona.[3] The Spanish royal family and aristocracy wore his designs. When the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, he moved to Paris.[3][4]

Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, where his first fashion show featured designs heavily influenced by the Spanish Renaissance.[3] His success was nearly immediate. In two years, the press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after.[3] Carmel Snow, the editor of Harper's Bazaar, was an early champion of his designs.[5]

Customers risked their safety traveling to Europe during World War II to see Balenciaga's clothing.[3] During this period, he was noted for his "square coat", with sleeves cut in a single piece with the yoke, and for his designs with black (or black and brown) lace over bright pink fabric.[3] Historians believe that Balenciaga's continued activity during the Nazi occupation of Paris was made possible by his connections with Spanish dictator General Francisco Franco who was Adolf Hitler's close ally.[6] The relation to Franco was so close that Balenciaga designed clothing for the Franco family.[7] The company was one of only 60 allowed to operate during the occupation, and the ongoing supply of raw materials from Spain, which were in short supply in Paris due to the war, gave Balenciaga a competitive advantage. However, he testified that he refused Hitler's request to transfer his company's activities to Berlin.[8][9]

During the post-war years, his lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by "Christian Dior's New Look".[3] The fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and women's bodies. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958.[3] Other contributions in the postwar era included the spherical balloon jacket (1953), the high-waisted baby doll dress (1957), the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957). In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimono. His manipulation of the waist, in particular, contributed to "what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for women."[3]

In the 1960s, Balenciaga tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery, and bold materials.[3] His trademarks included "collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance" and shortened "bracelet" sleeves.[3] His often spare, sculptural creations—including funnel-shape gowns of stiff duchess satin worn to acclaim by clients such as Pauline de Rothschild, Bunny Mellon, Marella Agnelli, Hope Portocarrero, Gloria Guinness, and Mona von Bismarck—were considered masterworks of haute couture in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1960, he designed the wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips. Jackie Kennedy famously upset her husband by buying Balenciaga's expensive creations while John F. Kennedy was president, he apparently feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish. Her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, Joseph Kennedy.[10]

Protégés

Several designers who worked for Balenciaga would go on to open their own successful couture houses, notably Oscar de la Renta (1949), Andre Courreges (1950), Emanuel Ungaro (1958), but his most famous and noted protégé was Hubert de Givenchy, who was the lone designer to side with Balenciaga against the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne and also the press over the scheduling of his shows.

Battle against the press

In 1957, Balenciaga famously decided to show his collection to the fashion press the day before the clothing retail delivery date, not the standard four weeks before the retail delivery date the fashion industry followed at the time. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it nearly impossible to get his work into their print deadlines, but Balenciaga and protégé Givenchy stood firm, seriously impacting their coverage and press of the era. His supporters would argue that rival Christian Dior would gain acclaim from copying Balenciaga's silhouettes and cuts, claiming them as his own original work; because Balenciaga was not interested in press coverage, the media, and consumers never knew.

In 1967, both designers reversed their decision and joined the traditional schedule.

Battle against the Chambre

Balenciaga defiantly resisted the rules, guidelines, and bourgeoisie status of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture parisienne, and, thus, was never a member. Although he is spoken of with immense reverence, officially, Balenciaga couture was never haute couture.

Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his fashion house in 1968 and died in 1972. The house lay dormant until 1986.[3]

1981 to 2010

Balenciaga exhibit, Fine Arts Museum (Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao), Bilbao, Spain

Balenciaga is now owned by Kering and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière.[11]

In 2002, Balenciaga's star, Nicolas Ghesquière, imitated the work of Kaisik Wong, a designer from San Francisco. Ghesquiere created a patchwork vest in his spring collection that resembled one that Wong designed in 1973. Ghesquière admitted in an interview in Paris that he had copied the garment.[12]

Ghesquière's F/W 2005 line showed that the house was not only making money, but also attracted a number of celebrity customers including editor-in-chief at Vogue, Anna Wintour.

The House of Balenciaga designed the dresses worn by Jennifer Connelly and Nicole Kidman to the 2006 Academy Awards, as well as the wedding gown Kidman wore when she married Keith Urban.[13] Kylie Minogue also wore a Balenciaga dress for her "Slow" and "Red Blooded Woman" music videos and for her concert tour.[14]

Balenciaga's Fall/Winter 2007 show impressed Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Amy Astley so much that an entire spread in the magazine, titled "Global Studies" and shot in Beijing, was influenced by it. The line included skinny jodhpurs, tight, fitted blazers, beaded embellished scarves, and other multicultural mixes.

Balenciaga is known for creating avant-garde, advanced structural pieces, straddling the edge of fashion and forecasting the future of women's ready-to-wear fashion. Vintage Balenciaga garments are popular among fashion editors, Hollywood stars, and models, and have been seen on Sienna Miller,[15] Lara Bingle, Raquel Zimmerman,[16] Caroline Trentini, Emmanuelle Alt,[17] Tatiana Sorokko,[18] Hilary Rhoda, Jennifer Garner, and Stephanie Seymour, among others.[19] Balenciaga is also frequently worn by actress Chloë Sevigny, who is also a muse of Nicolas Ghesquière.

2010 to present

Balenciaga handbags on display at the Galeries Lafayette in Paris

In March 2011 at M. H. de Young Museum in San Francisco, USA, Balenciaga celebrated the opening of Balenciaga and Spain, a 120-piece fashion retrospective of Cristóbal Balenciaga's career. The exhibition included many designs from the museum's encyclopedic costume collection. "You can't even measure it", said Rodarte designer Laura Mulleavy of Cristóbal Balenciaga's influence.[20] The $2,500-a-ticket fund-raiser for the museum drew 350 guests, including Denise Hale, Marissa Mayer, Vanessa Getty, Victoria Traina, Vanessa Traina, Jamie Tisch, Gwyneth Paltrow, Orlando Bloom, Balthazar Getty, Maggie Rizer, Connie Nielsen, Maria Bello, and Mia Wasikowska.[20]

In June 2011, the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in Getaria, Spain.[21]

In November 2012, Balenciaga announced that it was parting with creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, ending his 15-year tenure.[22][23] The brand announced Alexander Wang as its new creative director.[23][24] Wang presented his first collection for the label on 28 February 2013, at Paris Fashion Week. In 2014, the Tribunal de grande instance de Paris set a trial date for the lawsuit between Balenciaga vs. Ghesquière.[25] Balenciaga claimed that Ghesquière's comments in the magazine System had hurt the company's image.[26] The highly publicized suit was mediated out of court.

In July 2015, Balenciaga announced it was parting with creative director Alexander Wang after three years. The Spring/Summer 2016 show was his last, featuring white lounge wear made from soft, natural fabrics.[27] In early October 2015, the brand appointed Demna Gvasalia as its new creative director.[28]

In 2018, Balenciaga was the subject of a social media backlash in China when personnel at one of Balenciaga's Paris stores assaulted a Chinese tourist.[29]: 218 

In, April 2021 Gvasalia presented his new Pre-Fall 2021 collection, as promoted by Vanity Teen magazine.[30] In August 2021, Justin Bieber was announced as the new face of Balenciaga.[31] In September 2021, the brand faced backlash when it released trompe-l'œil sweatpants with the illusion of plaid boxers sticking out the top with a price tag of $1,190.[32] In May 2022, Balenciaga announced that it accepts crypto payments.[33][34]

In October 2022 Balenciaga announced that it was severing its ties to Kanye West due to his anti-semitic comments.[35]

In November 2023, Balenciaga appointed Michelle Yeoh as its brand ambassador.[36]

In December 2023, Balenciaga introduced its new brand ambassador, Nicole Kidman.[37][38][39]

Support for Ukraine

In March 2022 during Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga expressed support for Ukraine during the Russian-Ukrainian War. T-shirts in yellow and blue (like the Ukrainian flag) were placed on the chairs. Creative director Demna Gvasalia recited a poem by Ukrainian writer Oleksandr Oles, "Live Ukraine, live for beauty," at the beginning and end of the show. He noted that this show is self-explanatory, as a dedication to "fearlessness, resistance, and the victory of love and peace."[40] The brand also made donations to the UN World Food Programme to support Ukrainian refugees.[41]

In the 1997 film For Richer or Poorer, Tim Allen's character accidentally sets a Balenciaga dress on fire. He tries laughing at it, rhetorically asking, "What the hell's a Balenciaga?"

On January 29, 2014, the character Myrtle Snow cries "Balenciaga!" as her dying words on the season finale of FX television show American Horror Story: Coven.[42][43]

Film director Paul Thomas Anderson was inspired to make Phantom Thread when he became interested in the fashion industry after reading about designer Cristóbal Balenciaga.[44]

Balenciaga collaborated with The Simpsons to create a short film for Paris Fashion Week in 2021.[45]

In 2022, American rapper and pop singer Lizzo referenced Balenciaga in her number one hit “About Damn Time,” singing “Feeling fussy, walkin' in my Balenci-ussies".

In 2022, singer Beyoncé released Renaissance. Her song Break My Soul “The Queen’s Remix" tracked with Madonna’s “Vogue” references “House of Balenciaga”.[46]

Balenciaga is referred to in the opening scene of Triangle of Sadness (Ruben Östlund, 2022), where a reporter tells models to "look Balenciaga", that is, to have a look of contempt.

Child advertising controversy

In November 2022, an advertising campaign posted on Balenciaga's Instagram account featured children holding teddy bears, which were dressed in bondage and BDSM gear.[47] Following heavy criticism, Balenciaga later apologized and removed all posts connected to the photo campaign. Meanwhile, the photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, said that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga.[47][48][49] Hours later, Balenciaga apologized for a separate, earlier advertisement, in which a $3,000 Balenciaga handbag sits amongst papers which include the text from a Supreme Court opinion in the Ashcroft v. Free Speech Coalition, which was a child pornography case.[50][47] Balenciaga announced that it was taking legal action in pursuit of $25 million, against the production company North Six and set designer, Nicholas Des Jardins, and they claimed they were responsible for the advertisement with the child pornography court document. In response, the set designer's attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot, and handled the papers and props used.[51][52] Balenciaga dropped their legal action on 2 December.[53]

In another image, featuring the actress, Isabelle Huppert, two art books can be seen in the background: one is based on The Cremaster Cycle (1994–2002) by the filmmaker Matthew Barney and one is As Sweet as It Gets (2014) by the Belgian painter Michaël Borremans. Some Twitter users tried to connect imagery from Barney's and Borremans' works to the court document, and based on this suggested there was a hidden message about child abuse in Balenciaga's marketing material.[54]

Carl W Jones from the School of Media and Communication at the University of Westminster described the campaign as an attempt of shockvertising.[55] Balenciaga brand-ambassador Kim Kardashian, who initially said nothing in public about the scandal, started selling her Balenciaga clothing and shoes.[56]

Creative directors

References

  1. ↑ "Balenciaga". The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language (5th ed.). HarperCollins.
  2. ↑ "What is the State of Luxury's Hundred Million Dollar Licensing Deals?". The Fashion Law. May 10, 2018. Retrieved September 3, 2022.
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Charleston, Beth Duncuff (October 2004). "Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972)". Timeline of Art History. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Archived from the original on January 27, 2007. Retrieved March 11, 2007.
  4. ↑ "Cristóbal Balenciaga". Victoria & Albert Museum. Archived from the original on November 23, 2007. Retrieved March 11, 2007.
  5. ↑ Rowlands, Penelope (2005). A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters. Atria. p. 286 and elsewhere. ISBN 0743480457.
  6. ↑ Peter, Popham (March 6, 2011). "Fashion and Fascism: A Love Story". The Independent. Archived from the original on February 25, 2021. Retrieved October 8, 2021.
  7. ↑ "In Which Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior Bring A New Dawn - Home - This Recording". thisrecording.com. Retrieved October 29, 2022.
  8. ↑ "5 Famous Fashion Designers Ties To The Nazis". The Fashion Spot. May 1, 2014. Archived from the original on May 9, 2014. Retrieved October 8, 2021.
  9. ↑ Paul, Johnson (January 19, 2011). "Cut Against The Bias". This Recording. Archived from the original on January 28, 2011. Retrieved October 8, 2021.
  10. ↑ Brown, Barbara Pascarell (2012). Pretty in pink: Jacqueline Kennedy and the politics of fashion. New York: UMI. p. 33. Retrieved October 12, 2021.
  11. ↑ Menkes, Suzy (November 20, 2001). "Nicolas Ghesquiere, a Creative Young Spirit in the Master Class, Balenciaga: Reviving and Revering". International Herald Tribune. Archived from the original on January 29, 2007. Retrieved March 11, 2007.
  12. ↑ Horyn, Cathy (April 9, 2002). "Is Copying Really a Part of the Creative Process?". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
  13. ↑ "Kidman and Urban: happy marriage or misalliance?". English pravda.ru. July 25, 2006.
  14. ↑ "Barco – Barco MiPIX and LED displays chosen for exclusive Kylie concert". barco.com. Archived from the original on October 15, 2006.
  15. ↑ "Celebrity Dress". Thecelebritydress.com. Retrieved March 25, 2011.
  16. ↑ "Raquel Zimmerman in vintage Balenciaga". slide.com. Archived from the original on September 27, 2011. Retrieved March 25, 2011.
  17. ↑ Zarrella, Katherine (October 2010). "The Hot and the Haute". Style.com. Retrieved March 25, 2011.
  18. ↑ Zinko, Corolyne (November 1, 2010). "Tatiana Sorokko's Extending the Runway". San Francisco Chronicle. Archived from the original on November 4, 2010. Retrieved November 1, 2010.
  19. ↑ "Look of the Day". InStyle. July 27, 2007. Archived from the original on March 11, 2012. Retrieved March 24, 2011.
  20. 1 2 "A Spanish Night for Balenciaga in San Francisco". Women's Wear Daily. March 25, 2011. Retrieved March 27, 2011.
  21. ↑ "Home Page". Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa. Retrieved April 28, 2022.
  22. ↑ "Nicolas Ghesquière to Leave Balenciaga". The New York Times. November 5, 2012. Retrieved November 5, 2012.
  23. 1 2 "Balenciaga RTW Fall 2014". WWD. February 27, 2014. Retrieved February 27, 2014.
  24. ↑ Lindsey Schickner. "Alexander Wang Will Helm Balenciaga And His Own Label". Archived from the original on September 20, 2020. Retrieved December 5, 2012.
  25. ↑ Socha, Miles (February 4, 2014). "Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière Trial Date Set". WWD. Retrieved February 5, 2014.
  26. ↑ "BALENCIAGA VS NICOLAS GHESQUIERE CASE TO BE SETTLED OUT OF COURT". Fashionista.com. August 27, 2014. Retrieved June 21, 2016.
  27. ↑ "Balenciaga Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show". Vogue. October 2, 2015. Retrieved October 7, 2015.
  28. ↑ Singer, Maya (October 6, 2015). "Vetements's Demna Gvasalia Is Balenciaga's New Artistic Director". Archived from the original on December 24, 2016. Retrieved October 7, 2015.
  29. ↑ Simpson, Tim (2023). Betting on Macau: Casino Capitalism and China's Consumer Revolution. Globalization and Community series. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press. ISBN 978-1-5179-0031-1.
  30. ↑ Colección Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2021 April 19, 2021. Vanity Teen.
  31. ↑ "Bieber for Balenciaga". Office Magazine. August 3, 2021. Retrieved August 9, 2021.
  32. ↑ Yancey-Bragg, N'dea (September 13, 2021). "Fashion designer Balenciaga accused of cultural appropriation over $1,190 sweatpants". USA TODAY. Retrieved September 14, 2021.
  33. ↑ "After Gucci, TAG Heuer, French fashion major Balenciaga will also accept crypto payments". MSN.
  34. ↑ Conti, Samantha; Chikhoune, Ryma; Nordstrom, Leigh (May 22, 2022). "Balenciaga Takes Crypto, the Rich's Charities". Yahoo! Finance.
  35. ↑ Hart, Jordan (October 22, 2022). "Kanye West refuses to be canceled despite Vogue and Balenciaga being the latest among these fashion companies to sever ties". Business Insiderl. Retrieved October 22, 2022.
  36. ↑ "Balenciaga names Michelle Yeoh as new global brand ambassador". Inside Retail. Retrieved November 13, 2023.
  37. ↑ "Nicole Kidman is the new luxury ambassador for Balenciaga". Fashion United. Retrieved December 17, 2023.
  38. ↑ "Balenciaga Names Nicole Kidman as New Brand Ambassador". L'Officiel USA. Retrieved December 17, 2023.
  39. ↑ "Nicole Kidman Is 'Excited' to Be Balenciaga's Newest Brand Ambassador". People. Retrieved December 17, 2023.
  40. ↑ "Balenciaga supports Ukraine at Paris Fashion Week". The National. March 7, 2022. Retrieved March 9, 2022.
  41. ↑ "How the fashion industry is reacting to the crisis in Ukraine". Harper's BAZAAR. March 4, 2022. Retrieved March 10, 2022.
  42. ↑ Scharf, Lindzi (February 3, 2014). "American Horror Story: Coven: Myrtle Snow wasn't wearing Balenciaga". Entertainment Weekly.
  43. ↑ Woerner, Meredith (January 30, 2014). "American Horror Story had NO CLUE how to end this season". io9.
  44. ↑ Sullivan, Kevin P. (November 2, 2017). "Paul Thomas Anderson opens up about Phantom Thread for the first time". Entertainment Weekly. Time. Retrieved November 3, 2017.
  45. ↑ "D'oh! couture: Balenciaga puts The Simpsons on Paris catwalk". the Guardian. October 3, 2021. Retrieved December 12, 2022.
  46. ↑ "Lizzo - About Damn Time lyrics". Genius.com. Retrieved January 10, 2023.
  47. 1 2 3 Paton, Elizabeth; Friedman, Vanessa; Testa, Jessica (December 2, 2022). "What to Know About Balenciaga's Campaign Controversy". New York Times. Retrieved December 3, 2022.
  48. ↑ "Balenciaga Apologizes for Controversial Kid's Campaign". Paper. November 22, 2022. Retrieved November 22, 2022.
  49. ↑ Herlihy, Brianna (November 22, 2022). "Balenciaga sparks outrage over 'depraved' ad campaign with toddlers, teddy bears in bondage". Fox News.
  50. ↑ Kolirin, Lianne (November 23, 2022). "Balenciaga apologizes for adverts featuring children holding bondage bears". CNN. Retrieved November 24, 2022.
  51. ↑ Kavilanz, Parija; Kolirin, Lianne; Owoseje, Toyin (November 29, 2022). "Balenciaga suing production company for $25 million over controversial campaign". CNN. Retrieved November 29, 2022.
  52. ↑ Paúl, María Luisa (November 28, 2022). "After teddy bear backlash, Balenciaga announces lawsuit for separate ad". The Washington Post. Retrieved November 28, 2022.
  53. ↑ "Balenciaga drops lawsuit, Demna apologises amid campaign controversy". Vogue. December 2, 2022. Retrieved December 3, 2022.
  54. ↑ Dafoe, Taylor (November 30, 2022). "How Artists Matthew Barney and Michaël Borremans Found Themselves Swept Up in Controversy Over a Balenciaga Ad Campaign". Artnet. Retrieved December 1, 2022.
  55. ↑ Jones, Carl W. "Balenciaga's controversial new campaign and the long history of 'shockvertising'". The Conversation. Retrieved December 7, 2022.
  56. ↑ "Kim Kardashian sells discounted Balenciaga items after teddy bear scandal". The Independent. January 12, 2023. Retrieved January 13, 2023.
  57. ↑ "Alexander Wang quitte la maison Balenciaga". Vogue. Retrieved November 27, 2023.
  58. ↑ "Balenciaga Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear". Vogue. Retrieved November 27, 2023.
  59. ↑ "Demna Gvasalia, le pari branché et osé de Balenciaga". Le Monde. Retrieved November 27, 2023.
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