46°38′57″N 6°19′02″E / 46.64912°N 6.31735°E / 46.64912; 6.31735

Groupe Horloger Breguet
TypeSubsidiary
IndustryLuxury watchmaking
Founded1775
FounderAbraham-Louis Breguet
Headquarters
L'Abbaye
,
Switzerland
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Nicolas G. Hayek
ProductsTourbillon, watches, clocks, jewelry
ParentThe Swatch Group
Websitebreguet.ch

Breguet is a Swiss luxury watch, clock and jewelry manufacturer founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet in Paris in 1775.[1] Since 1999, it has been a subsidiary of the Swiss Swatch Group.[2] Headquartered in L'Abbaye, Switzerland, Breguet is one of the oldest surviving watchmaking brands and a pioneer of numerous watchmaking technologies such as the tourbillon, which was invented by Abraham Breguet in 1801.[3] Abraham Breguet also invented and produced the world's first self-winding watch (the Perpétuelle) in 1780, as well as the world's first wristwatch in 1810 (the Breguet No.2639, for Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples).[4][5][6]

Breguet is a highly regarded watch manufacturer.[1][7][8][9][10] Over the years, notable Breguet patrons and timepiece owners include Emperor of the French Napoléon Bonaparte, King George III, Queen Victoria, Alexandre I of Russia, Ettore Bugatti, Sir Winston Churchill, Sergei Rachmaninoff, Gioachino Rossini, Arthur Rubinstein and so on.[11][12][13] The Breguet & Fils, Paris No. 2667 (1814) pocket watch is among the most expensive watches sold at auction, fetching US$4.69 million (CHF 4,339,000) in Geneva in May 2012.[14][15] The Breguet Sympathique Clock No.128 & 5009 (Duc d'Orléans Breguet Sympathique), is currently the most expensive Breguet timepiece ever sold at auction, fetching US$6.8 million in New York in December 2012.[16][17][18]

History

Early history

Abraham-Louis Breguet

Breguet was founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, a Swiss watchmaker born to Huguenot parents in Neuchâtel. He studied watchmaking for ten years under Ferdinand Berthoud and Jean-Antoine Lépine before setting up his own watchmaking business at 51 Quai de l'Horloge on the Île de la Cité in Paris. The dowry that came with his marriage to the daughter of a prosperous French bourgeois provided the backing which allowed him to open his own workshop.

Breguet's connections made during his apprenticeship as a watchmaker and as a student of mathematics helped him to establish his business. Following his introduction to the court, Queen Marie Antoinette grew fascinated by Breguet's unique self-winding watch; Louis XVI bought several of his watches. In 1783 the Swedish count Axel Von Fersen, who was the queen's friend and reputed lover, commissioned a watch from Breguet that was to contain every watch complication known at that time as a gift to Marie Antoinette. The result is a Breguet's masterpiece, the Marie-Antoinette pocket watch (Breguet No.160).[19][20]

The business was a success, and around 1807 Abraham-Louis Breguet took on his son Louis-Antoine as his partner, renaming the firm "Breguet et Fils" (Breguet and Sons). Louis-Antoine took over the firm upon the death of his father in 1823. After Louis-Antoine retired in 1833 (he died in 1858) the business was passed to Abraham-Louis' grandson Louis Clément Francois (1804–1883).

Abraham-Louis' great-grandson Louis Antoine (1851–1882) was the last of the Breguet family to run the business. Although he had two sons and a daughter, they did not enter the business, so the Breguet company hired noted English watchmaker Edward Brown of Clerkenwell to manage the Paris factory. Brown eventually became a partner and, after Breguet's grandson's death, the owner and head of the company. When Brown died in 1895 the firm was taken over by his sons, Edward and Henry. On Edward's retirement in the early 1900s, Henry Brown became the head of the firm.[21]

Recent development

A tourbillon movement watch by Breguet

From 1870 to 1970, Breguet was owned by the English Brown family. The Brown family were of English origin, Edward Brown was prominent factory manager who acquired Breguet from Abraham-Louis’ grandson, Louis-François, an engineer. Brown managed the brand through the turbulent French politics of the late 19th century. It was only after Edward’s death that the firm saw its sales rise near the levels it enjoyed before 1870. Edward’s son, Edouard, took over the business until 1912 when his brother Henry took over.[22] After the Brown family, the ownership changed hands several times during the quartz crisis in the 1970s and 1980s. In 1976, Breguet's then-owner Chaumet closed its French factory and moved production to the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland.

In 1987, Breguet was acquired by Investcorp which, in 1991, created the Groupe Horloger Breguet (GHB). The Breguet Group consists of four subsidiaries: Montres Breguet SA, Breguet SA, Valdar SA and Nouvelle Lemania SA (which Breguet Group acquired in 1992).[2][23] As a result, Breguet-brand watches are now made at the Nouvelle Lemania factory in Switzerland. In particular, Montres Breguet SA is the main company that sells timepieces under the brand name of "Breguet", and Breguet SA is the name of Breguet Group's distribution company in France.[2]

In 1999, Groupe Horloger Breguet was acquired by the Swatch Group from Investcorp.[2] Breguet is an active member of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH.[24]

Motto and slogan

One of Breguet's company mottoes is "In every woman is a queen."[25][26] The motto was introduced for Breguet's lady's collection, the Reine de Naples collection.[26]

Watch manufacturing

A Breguet pocket watch in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

Breguet watches are often easily recognized for their coin-edge cases, guilloché dials and blue pomme hands (often now referred to as 'Breguet hands').[27] In addition to watches, Breguet also manufactures writing instruments, women's jewelry, and cufflinks.[28]

Notable inventions and patents

The following are some of the important inventions of Abraham-Louis Breguet and Breguet company.

  • In 1780, invented and produced the world's self-winding/automatic watch (the Perpétuelle).[4][5]
  • In 1783, invented the Gong-spring, laying the foundation for minute repeaters.[29][30]
  • In 1783, invented the Breguet hands.[31][32]
  • In 1790, invented the Pare-chute, one of the world's first shock protection systems.[33][34]
  • In 1795, invented the Breguet overcoil or Breguet spiral, being widely used in watchmaking industry to this day.[35][36]
  • In 1801, invented tourbillon, balancing the effect of gravity.[3]
  • In 1810, invented and produced the world's first wristwatch (Breguet No. 2639).[6][37]
  • In 1830, Breguet produces the first watch wound without a key, equipped with a knurled knob for winding and setting the time.[38]
  • In 1929, created the world's first (possibly) perpetual calendar movement for wristwatches (Breguet No. 2516).[39][40][41]
  • In 2010, patented the magnetic pivot, used to improve watch precision using magnetism.[42]
  • In 2010, introduced the magnetic strike governor.[43]

Environmental rating

Top 5 gold producing nations

In December 2018, World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) released an official report giving environmental ratings for 15 major watch manufacturers and jewelers in Switzerland.[44][45] Breguet, along with 7 other manufacturers including Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Rolex, was given the lowest environmental rating as "Latecomers/Non-transparent", suggesting that the manufacturer has taken very few actions addressing the impact of its manufacturing activities on the environment and climate change.[44]

There are concerns over the lack of transparency in manufacturing activities and the sourcing of precious raw materials such as gold, which is a major cause of environmental issues such as pollution, soil degradation and deforestation.[44][45] The situation is especially serious in the developing countries which are top producers of gold, including China, Russia and South Africa.[46][47][48][49] It is estimated that the watch and jewelry sector uses over 50% of world's annual gold production (over 2,000 tons), but in most cases the watch companies are not able to or are unwilling to demonstrate where their raw materials come from and if the material suppliers use eco-friendly sourcing technologies.[44]

Notable models

Most expensive pieces

Breguet No.160, Marie-Antoinette pocket watch
  • In May 2012, a Breguet pocket watch, the Breguet & Fils, Paris No.2667, was sold in Christie's Geneva auction with a final price of US$4.69 million (CHF 4,339,000).[50][51]
  • In May 2012, a Breguet pocket watch, the Breguet, Paris, No.4111, was sold in Christie's Geneva auction with a final price of US$2.75 million (CHF 2,547,000).[52][53]
  • In December 2012, the Breguet Sympathique Clock No.128 & 5009 (Duc d'Orléans Breguet Sympathique, owned by Ferdinand Philippe, Duke of Orléans) was auctioned by Sotheby's for US$6.8 million in New York, making it the most expensive Breguet timepiece ever sold at auction.[16][17] The clock was auctioned by Sotheby's for the first time in 1999, fetching a record-breaking US$5,777,500 in New York, after the shutdown of the celebrated Time Museum in Rockford, Illinois.[54]
  • In May 2016, a pocket watch, the Breguet & Fils, No.217, was sold in Christie's Geneva auction for US$3.33 million (CHF 3,245,000).[55][56]

Marie-Antoinette pocket watch

In 1783, an admirer of Marie Antoinette, the Queen of France, commissioned a watch from Abraham-Louis Breguet as a gift for the Queen.[19][20] The requirement was that the watch should be "as spectacular as possible, incorporating the fullest range of horological expertise known at the time".[19][57] There was no time deadline or financial limit with the commission.[19]

The final product was the Breguet No.160 grand complication (Marie-Antoinette pocket watch). However, the watch was only finished in 1827, 34 years after the death of the Queen during French Revolution, and four years after the death of Abraham-Louis Breguet (the watch was eventually completed by the son of Abraham Breguet).[19][57] In total, it took 44 years to make the watch.[19][57]

The watch had been kept in the Museum for Islamic Art in Jerusalem until it was stolen in 1983.[19][58] In 2007, the watch was eventually recovered and returned to the museum.[19][58]

Gentleman's collection

  • Classique: Simple, Grandes Complications – popular round pieces, usually with reeded casebands and soldered lugs;
    • The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Flat, available in rose gold or platinum.[59]
    • The Classique Small Seconds, available in rose gold or in white gold.[60]
  • La Marine – water-resistant, distinguished by the presence of crown guards;
  • Heritage – tonneau-shaped cases;
  • Type XX, XXI, XXII – sports chronographs, based on World War II-era pilots' watches;
    • The Type XXII Flyback Chronograph, available in rose gold.[61]
  • Tradition – similar to the long gone Souscription by Breguet, open-faced watches with the movement on the front, along with a small face.

Lady's collection

  • Classique;
  • La Marine;
  • Heritage;
  • Type XX;

Reine de Naples – oval bezels.

Notable patrons and owners

Artists

Breguet No. 627 wristwatch

Entrepreneurs

Intellectuals

Politicians

Royalty

Breguet No. 1705 tourbillon wristwatch

See also

References

  1. 1 2 "Brand - Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie". www.hautehorlogerie.org. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  2. 1 2 3 4 "The Swatch Group Ltd. acquires Groupe Horloger Breguet from Investcorp S.A." Archived from the original on 1 November 2014. Retrieved 3 October 2014.
  3. 1 2 "Tourbillon | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 6 January 2019.
  4. 1 2 "Abraham-Louis Breguet | Timepiece Luminaries | THE SEIKO MUSEUM". museum.seiko.co.jp. Retrieved 6 January 2019.
  5. 1 2 "Self-winding | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 6 January 2019.
  6. 1 2 "First wristwatch | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 20 December 2018.
  7. ↑ "Marking time: one watchmaker’s literary tributes". The Telegraph. 14 June 2017. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  8. ↑ "Breguet: the Expression of Being – FHH Journal". journal.hautehorlogerie.org. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  9. ↑ Clymer, Benjamin (14 January 2016). "A Week On The Wrist: The Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727". HODINKEE. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  10. ↑ "Breguet Ranked Most Prestigious Among Pentamillionaires". Luxury Insider. 6 June 2012. Archived from the original on 8 June 2019. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  11. ↑ "Distinguished Patrons (1824 - 1863) Timeline | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  12. 1 2 "1809 - Alexandre 1st, Tsar of Russia (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 5 January 2019.
  13. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 "THE BREGUET COLLECTIONS" (PDF). Breguet.
  14. ↑ "Christie's - Record Price For Any Breguet Watch - Business - WorldTempus". en.worldtempus.com. Retrieved 23 November 2018.
  15. ↑ "Important Watches". Retrieved 23 November 2018.
  16. 1 2 "The Duc d'Orléans Breguet Sympathique". Sotheby's. Retrieved 17 February 2019.
  17. 1 2 DeMarco, Anthony. "Rare Breguet Clock Sells For Record $6.8 Million". Forbes. Retrieved 18 February 2019.
  18. ↑ "Breguet Clock With Docking Pocket Watch Re-Sets Record For A Clock At Auction, Fetching $6.8 Million at Sotheby's New York". Hodinkee. 5 December 2012. Retrieved 18 February 2019.
  19. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 "Marie-Antoinette pocket watch | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 14 December 2018.
  20. 1 2 Touchot, Arthur (21 April 2017). "Hands-On: The Breguet Number 1160, A Replica Of The Famous Watch Made For Marie Antoinette". Hodinkee. Retrieved 14 December 2018.
  21. ↑ Salomons, 1921, pp.7–8
  22. ↑ "THE SECOND BREGUET FAMILY." Montres Publiques, 10/30/2019, https://montrespubliques.com/1minute-reads/the-second-breguet-family
  23. ↑ "Company Overview of Groupe Horloger Breguet". www.bloomberg.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  24. ↑ "Our brands". Federation of the Swiss watch industry.
  25. ↑ "Swatch Group Annual Report 2012" (PDF). Swatch. Retrieved 23 January 2019.
  26. 1 2 "Watches ad In every woman is a queen for Breguet". www.afaqs.com. Retrieved 23 January 2019.
  27. ↑ "Breguet hands | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 6 January 2019.
  28. ↑ "Breguet Collecstions". Archived from the original on 6 October 2014. Retrieved 3 October 2014.
  29. ↑ "Gong-spring | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  30. ↑ "Gong Chimes and Grand Traditions". Calibre Magazine. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  31. ↑ "Breguet hands | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  32. ↑ "Breguet hands | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  33. ↑ "Pare-chute | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  34. ↑ Contributor. "The Basics Of Shock Resistance | Crown Watch Blog". www.crownwatchblog.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019. {{cite web}}: |last= has generic name (help)
  35. ↑ "Breguet balance-spring | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  36. ↑ "Breguet overcoil - Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie". www.hautehorlogerie.org. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  37. ↑ "Histoire de la Maison Breguet" Archived 13 May 2011 at the Wayback Machine, Tendance Horlogerie, 16 April 2009 (French)
  38. ↑ "Timeline | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 14 May 2022.
  39. ↑ "Breguet. A unique and historically important 18K white gold tonneau-shaped wristwatch with instantaneous perpetual calendar and moon phases , SIGNED BREGUET, NO. 2516, MANUFACTURED IN 1929". www.christies.com. Retrieved 20 February 2019.
  40. ↑ "The Perpetual Calendar Complication: A History". Crown & Caliber Blog. 21 June 2018. Archived from the original on 2 April 2019. Retrieved 20 February 2019.
  41. ↑ Touchot, Arthur (29 February 2016). "Historical Perspectives: (Possibly) The World's First Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch, From Breguet, Revisited On Leap Day 2016". Hodinkee. Retrieved 20 February 2019.
  42. ↑ "Magnetic pivot | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  43. ↑ "Magnetic strike governor | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
  44. 1 2 3 4 "Environmental rating and industry report 2018" (PDF). World Wide Fund for Nature. Retrieved 19 January 2019.
  45. 1 2 swissinfo.ch, S. W. I.; Corporation, a branch of the Swiss Broadcasting. "Swiss luxury watches fail to meet environmental standards". SWI swissinfo.ch. Retrieved 19 January 2019.
  46. ↑ Vidal, John; Guest, graphic by Pete (15 August 2015). "How developing countries are paying a high price for the global mineral boom". The Observer. ISSN 0029-7712. Retrieved 2 February 2019.
  47. ↑ "China needs to get to grips with its gold mining pollution crisis". www.chinadialogue.net. 28 May 2014. Retrieved 2 February 2019.
  48. ↑ Einhorn, Dom (9 February 2015). "Mining in Russia: An economic boost or an environmental threat?". Born2Invest. Retrieved 2 February 2019.
  49. ↑ "South Africa has failed to protect locals from gold mine pollution: Harvard report". MINING.com. 12 October 2016. Retrieved 2 February 2019.
  50. ↑ "Breguet & Fils, Paris, No. 2667". www.christies.com. Retrieved 29 November 2018.
  51. ↑ "Important Watches". Christie's. Retrieved 23 November 2018.
  52. ↑ "Breguet shines at the Geneva auctions in May – FHH Journal". Archived from the original on 3 August 2020. Retrieved 29 November 2018.
  53. ↑ "Patek Philippe (REF. 2499, MOVEMENT NO. 868'019, CASE NO. 687'772, MANUFACTURED IN 1950)". www.christies.com. Retrieved 23 November 2018.
  54. ↑ "RECORD-BREAKING $11 MILLION WATCH SELLS AT SOTHEBY'S PROVING THAT TIME IS MONEY". Sotheby's. Archived from the original on 19 February 2019. Retrieved 18 February 2019.
  55. ↑ "Breguet (No. 217, SIGNED BREGUET ET FILS, SOLD IN GERMINAL AN 8 (1800) TO GÉNÉRAL MOREAU FOR THE SUM OF 3,600 FRANCS, RESOLD TO MR. HAVAS ON 31ST DECEMBER 1817 FOR 4,800 FRANCS)". Retrieved 1 December 2018.
  56. ↑ "GLOBAL RESULTS FOR WATCH AUCTIONS IN 2016 | AderWatches". AderWatches. 31 January 2017. Retrieved 1 December 2018.
  57. 1 2 3 Adamczyk, Alicia. "Return of the Queen: The Curious Saga of Breguet's Infamous Marie Antoinette Watch". Forbes. Retrieved 14 December 2018.
  58. 1 2 Bell, Rebekah (2 December 2015). "The Breguet That Got Away: History's Greatest Watch Heist". Robb Report. Retrieved 14 December 2018.
  59. ↑ "Insider: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Flat ref. 5367". WATCH COLLECTING LIFESTYLE. Retrieved 14 July 2020.
  60. ↑ "Insider: Breguet Classique Small Seconds ref. 7147. Hands-on with a Very Slim and Super Elegant 'Time Only' Watch". WATCH COLLECTING LIFESTYLE. Retrieved 14 July 2020.
  61. ↑ "Insider: Breguet Type XXII Flyback Chronograph ref. 3880. Equipped with a 10Hz High Frequency Movement and Just the Right Amount of Red". WATCH COLLECTING LIFESTYLE. Retrieved 14 July 2020.
  62. ↑ "Alexandre Pouchkine | Breguet".
  63. ↑ "Breguet Lends its Support to the Geneva International Music Competition | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  64. ↑ "Gioachino Rossini". Breuget.
  65. ↑ "1903 - Arthur Rubinstein (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 5 January 2019.
  66. ↑ "News: Breguet Acquires a Dashboard Chronograph Specially Created for Bugatti. Meet The Breguet No. 2023". WATCH COLLECTING LIFESTYLE. Retrieved 20 February 2019.
  67. ↑ Mun-Delsalle, Y.-Jean. "Million-Dollar Babies: 10 Bling-Free Watches Priced At More Than A Million Dollars". Forbes. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  68. ↑ Novela, Daniel (22 February 2013). "Power, And the Watch". Luxury Watch Trends 2018 - Baselworld SIHH Watch News. Retrieved 27 January 2019.
  69. ↑ Samuel, Henry (12 November 2007). "Sarkozy ticking as Geneva goes watch crazy". Daily Telegraph. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 27 January 2019.
  70. ↑ "1787 - Charles Maurice de Talleyrand (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 5 January 2019.
  71. ↑ "1813 - Michel Ney, marshal of France (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 5 January 2019.
  72. ↑ "Putin's Flashy $700K Watch Collection". ABC News. Retrieved 24 December 2018.
  73. ↑ Rickett, Oscar (17 September 2013). "Why Does Vladimir Putin Keep Giving His Watches Away to Peasants?". Vice. Retrieved 24 December 2018.
  74. ↑ "Medvedev: I'm No Millionaire". The Daily Beast. 6 April 2009. Retrieved 24 December 2018.
  75. ↑ "1901 - Sir Winston Churchill (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 5 January 2019.
  76. ↑ "Churchill's Breguet watch recreated for Darkest Hour – FHH Journal". journal.hautehorlogerie.org. Archived from the original on 6 August 2020. Retrieved 2 March 2019.
  77. ↑ "How did the Duke of Wellington acquire the watch worn by Napoleon's brother?". The Telegraph. 8 March 2017. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  78. ↑ "1798 - Napoléon Bonaparte (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 5 January 2019.
  79. ↑ "1798 - L'impératrice Joséphine (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 5 January 2019.
  80. ↑ "Breguet. A fine and rare lady’s platinum, enamel, diamond and emerald-set rectangular wristwatch with certificate, made for King Fouad I of Egypt , SIGNED BREGUET, NO. 773, MADE IN 1925". www.christies.com. Retrieved 18 January 2019.
  81. ↑ "King Farouk's Breguet, No. 1880/24071. Presentation watch specially made for King Farouk, circa 1935". catalog.antiquorum.swiss. Retrieved 24 February 2019.
  82. ↑ "Abraham-Louis Breguet | Breguet". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 14 December 2018.
  83. ↑ "1782 - Queen Marie-Antoinette (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 14 December 2018.
  84. ↑ "1808 - Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 5 January 2019.
  85. ↑ "1804 - Selim III (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 5 January 2019.
  86. ↑ Lucas, Edward Verrall (1922). Giving and Receiving: Essays and Fantasies. G. H. Doran.
  87. ↑ "Breguet (AN EARLY GOLD AND SILVER SOUSCRIPTION WATCH NO 3233 SOLD TO MONSIEUR LE DUC D' ARGYLE 30 SEPTEMBER 1818 FOR 678 FRANCS)". Sotheby's. Retrieved 1 March 2019.
  88. ↑ "1838 - Queen Victoria (Timeline of Breguet)". www.breguet.com. Retrieved 14 December 2018.
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