Christian Core
Christian Core on Gioia (8C+), Varazze
Personal information
NationalityItalian
Born (1974-10-05) 5 October 1974
Savona, Italy
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height177 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight61 kg (134 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forfirst-ever person to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder
First ascents
  • Gioia (V16, 2008)
Medal record
World Cup
Winner1999Bouldering
Winner2002Bouldering
World Championships
Bronze medal – third place 2001Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2003Bouldering
European Championships
Gold medal – first place 2002Bouldering
Updated on 31 October 2017.

Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, Gioia, in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history.[1] He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002.[2] In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.[3]

Bouldering

He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze, and Triora. In 2008, he climbed Gioia, the first-ever boulder graded 8C+ (V16) in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade,[4] however, in 2015, Core announced that someone had chipped new holds into Gioia, which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.[5]

Personal life

In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[6]

1995 1996 1997 1998
Lead 10 11 9 17
1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012
Bouldering 1 8 7 1 8 16 4 4 13 16 54 26 54 32

Climbing World Championships[7]

1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011
Lead 7 - - - - - - -
Bouldering - - 3 1 18 10 10 33

Climbing European Championships[7]

1998 2000 2002 2004 2007 2008 2010
Lead 10 - - - - - -
Bouldering - - 1 - 16 10 7

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Bouldering[7]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
1999213
2000112
200111
2002112
200311
200411
200511
200611
201011
Total36413

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

Core redpointed 8c (5.14b) and onsighted 8a (5.13b) routes.

Boulder problems

Core redpointed 8C+ (V16) and flashed 8A (V11) boulder problems.

8C+/V16:

  • GioiaVarazze (ITA) – 2008 – First ascent.[8] Adam Ondra repeated it on 6 December 2011 and confirmed the 8C+ grade.[9] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival[10]

8C/V15:

8B+/V14:

Film

  • i Core, my climbing family – 2012 – Regia di Angelo Poli – 45'[20][21]

See also

References

  1. planetmountain.com, ed. (1 September 1999). "A Cristian Core e Stèphanie Bodet la Worldcup di Bouldering 1999". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  2. planetmountain.com, ed. (23 October 2002). "A Core e Perlova la World Cup Bouldering". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  3. planetmountain.com, ed. (11 July 2003). "Core e Levet campioni del mondo Boulder". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  4. "Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview". PlanetMountain.com. 7 December 2011. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  5. "Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history". 8a.nu. 19 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  6. IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  7. 1 2 3 IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Core's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  8. infoboulder.com, ed. (25 February 2008). "La Gioia di Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  9. planetmountain.com, ed. (6 December 2011). "Adam Ondra ripete Gioia 8C+ a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  10. planetmountain.com, ed. (22 February 2014). "Nalle Hukkataival ripete Gioia a Varazze". Retrieved 23 September 2014.
  11. infoboulder.com, ed. (6 September 2006). "Una Kimera per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  12. infoboulder.com, ed. (31 October 2009). "Christian Core apre Toky". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  13. infoboulder.com, ed. (14 December 2006). "New Base Line per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  14. infoboulder.com, ed. (2 March 2006). "Christian Core, 8b+ in Spagna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  15. infoboulder.com, ed. (1 June 2004). "Christian Core risolve Ajna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  16. infoboulder.com, ed. (10 May 2003). "'Toguro' 8b+ per Core a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  17. infoboulder.com, ed. (14 February 2003). "Christian Core sale 'Dreamtime'". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  18. infoboulder.com, ed. (7 November 2002). "Taklimakam si allunga". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  19. infoboulder.com, ed. (19 September 2002). "Christian Core, 8b+ su Shadowfax". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  20. planetmountain.com, ed. (16 October 2012). "i Core my climbing family su Deejay TV". Retrieved 29 July 2013.
  21. I Core: My Climbing Family at IMDb

Bibliografia

  • Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core (2000). Pareti e Montagne edizioni (ed.). Train!.
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