Magnus Rognan Midtbø
Midtbø in 2010
Personal information
Born (1988-09-18) 18 September 1988
Bergen, Norway
Height173 cm (5 ft 8 in)
Weight71 kg (157 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Medal record
World Games
Bronze medal – third place2013 CaliLead
World Cup
Bronze medal – third place2011 ChamonixLead
Bronze medal – third place2012 KranjLead
Updated on 16 June 2019.
Magnus Midtbø
YouTube information
Channel
Years active2011-present
Genre(s)Climbing, Vlog, Sport
Subscribers2.06 million[3]
Total views353.8 million[4][3]
Last updated: January 6, 2024

Magnus Rognan Midtbø (born 18 September 1988)[5] is a Norwegian rock climber, competition climber, and YouTube video blogger. He was born in Bergen, Norway. He retired from competition climbing in 2017.

Climbing career

Rock climbing

Midtbø started climbing in 2000 at 11 years of age after his mother enrolled him in a class. After just one year of climbing, he won the Norwegian Youth Championship, and a year later, in 2002, he on-sight climbed his first 8a (5.13b) sport climbing route Øgletryne at the Sageveggen rock wall, near Bergen.[6][7][8]

In August 2010, he made his most challenging ascent to date, when he completed the route Ali Hulk sit start extension in Rodellar, Spain. The route is composed of a bouldering route (i.e. climbed without rope) and a sport climbing route. The first ascent was made by Daniel Andrada in 2007. The grade was initially considered to be 9b (5.15b) but has been since downgraded to 9a+/b.[1] In an interview with UKClimbing, Midtbø stated that there were many challenges to this route, such as resting in the initial boulder section to work out the rest of the route and mustering sufficient core strength to overcome the overhang.[9]

In May 2013, Midtbø returned to Rodellar to on-sight the sport climbing route, Cosi fan tutte, which is graded at 8c+ (5.14c). As of April 2013, only four other people had on-sighted routes graded 8c+ or higher: Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, and Alex Megos.[2]

Competition climbing

In 2005, he won the World Youth Championships in Beijing, China.[10][11]

After graduating from high school in 2007, Midtbø moved to Innsbruck, Austria. At the time, Innsbruck attracted many of the world's top climbers, including David Lama, Jakob Schubert, and Anna Stöhr, who trained together for competitions. In an interview, Midtbø described Lama as the most talented person he had ever climbed with as well as a personal inspiration during their tenure in Austria.[12]

Midtbø retired from competitive climbing in May 2017.[13] In the 95th vlog of Midtbø's YouTube channel, he described his decision to retire: "I still get motivated just by climbing. I think some people need a specific goal, but I’ve never felt like I needed one. It sounds really cheesy, I know. I just love climbing. I love being in the nature. I love the feeling of feeling free, but it is like that you know. I don’t know. I like the lifestyle, I like traveling, I like trying hard, and most of all, I like the feeling of feeling really fit, really strong, the feeling of being able to climb anything."[14]

Media career

Midtbø runs a successful eponymous YouTube channel, which has over two million subscribers as of November 2023.[15] On his channel, Midtbø posts videos centered around climbing; he often offers training advice, collaborates with fellow climbers, and has made several videos that highlight his athletic prowess. Most of his YouTube content is dedicated to his vlog series, which he began producing in March 2017. He also posts climbing and fitness-related content to his Instagram account, where he has more than 430,000 followers.

In 2013, Magnus Midtbø participated in a German TV show Der Deutsche Meister (the German Champion) as the international contestant in the Reckstangenklettern (salmon ladder) challenge. Midtbø beat the German contestant.[16][17]

Midtbø received criticism in 2016 for publishing an Instagram picture of himself hanging off the Trolltunga rock formation, a popular tourist attraction in Norway. Wearing a safety harness, Midtbø suspended himself from the overhanging rock, but local police officers were concerned that the stunt might inspire others to replicate it without taking proper safety precautions.[18][19][20]

In January 2020, Magnus Midtbø represented Team Europe in American Ninja Warrior: USA vs. The World.[21]

Personal life

His sister, Hannah Midtbø (born 1990), is also a professional climber. She won the Nordic Championships (NM) in the lead climbing discipline in 2006[5] and has been a bouldering competitor at various IFSC World Cups and European Championships.[22]

Rankings

[23] [24] [25]

World Games

World Games record:

Discipline 2013
Cali[26]
Lead 3

Number of medals in the IFSC Climbing World Cup

IFSC Climbing World Cup

Lead

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201111
201211
Total0022

USA Climbing

USA Climbing

Discipline 2010[27] 2011[28]
Lead 1 1

IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships

IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships

Discipline 2005
Youth A[11]
Lead 1

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup / Series

Lead

European Youth Cup Winner: 2005,[29] 2006,[30] 2007[31]

Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2003Youth B11
2004Youth A11
2005Youth A325
2006Junior33
2007Junior415
Total114015

Scandinavia

  • Nordic champion 7 years in a row (2005–2011)
  • Norwegian champion 11 years in a row (2005–2015)[20][5]

References

  1. 1 2 Björn Pohl (October 2010). "Video: Magnus Midtboe climbs 9b". UK Climbing. Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved 21 April 2013.
  2. 1 2 "Magnus Midtbø onsights 8c+ at Rodellar in Spain". Planetmountain. 18 April 2013. Archived from the original on June 22, 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2013.
  3. 1 2 "About Magnus Midtbø". YouTube.
  4. ↑ "Magnus Midtbø - YouTube". YouTube.
  5. 1 2 3 "Magnus Rognan Midtbø in Store Norske Leksikon". Archived from the original on Oct 23, 2016.
  6. ↑ Tijl. "Magnus Midtbø". belclimb.net. Archived from the original on Sep 29, 2018.
  7. ↑ "Øgletryne Sageveggen". 8a.nu. Archived from the original on Jun 15, 2019.
  8. ↑ "The line is blurry. Øgletryne was the first 8a I ever did and now 15 years later it's my first 8a without a rope[...]". facebook.com. Archived from the original on Jun 16, 2019.
  9. ↑ Björn Pohl (August 2010). "Magnus Midtbø interview". UK Climbing. Retrieved 11 May 2013.
  10. ↑ "Athlet Magnus midtbø". whiteout-climbing.de. Archived from the original on May 31, 2019.
  11. 1 2 "UIAA World Youth Championship - Bejing [sic] (CHN) 2005 - Result: male youth A lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 16, 2019.
  12. ↑
  13. ↑ "Retirement announcement". Facebook. May 2017. Retrieved 16 December 2018.
  14. ↑ Mitdbo, Magnus. "NO CLIMBING COMPETITIONS? - Q&A | VLOG #95". Youtube. Retrieved 20 January 2019.
  15. ↑ "Magnus Midtbø - YouTube". YouTube.
  16. ↑ "Wuppertaler erfolgreich in ARD-Show". Westdeutsche Zeitung. 3 November 2013. Archived from the original on June 15, 2019.
  17. ↑ "Die Gewinner der Finalshow". ARD. Archived from the original on March 21, 2017.
  18. ↑ "Norway climber slammed for Trolltunga stunt". 2 August 2016.
  19. ↑ "Mange mente jeg var gal og dum (Many thought I was crazy and stupid)". NRK. 11 August 2016. Archived from the original on Aug 17, 2016.
  20. 1 2 "Her henger Magnus (27) fra Trolltunga (Here, Magnus (27) hangs from Trolltunga)". NRK. 30 July 2016. Archived from the original on Aug 17, 2016.
  21. ↑ "Get to Know the Ninja Warriors of Team Europe". American Ninja Warrior Nation. 24 January 2020. Archived from the original on February 7, 2020. Retrieved February 7, 2020.
  22. ↑ "Hannah Midtboe (IFSC profile)". Archived from the original on Oct 11, 2018.
  23. ↑ "IFSC old website: Magnus Midtboe - All Results (2010)". Archived from the original on Dec 7, 2010.
  24. ↑ "IFSC old website: Magnus Midtboe - Best Results (2012)". Archived from the original on Jul 27, 2012.
  25. ↑ Mitdbo, Magnus. "About Me (2012)". Archived from the original on Nov 13, 2016.
  26. ↑ "World Games 2013 Cali result book: Climbing" (PDF). worldgames2013.sportresult.com. Swiss Timing. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2016-09-12.
  27. ↑ "2010 SCS Open National Championship Results". Archived from the original on Mar 7, 2017.
  28. ↑ "DiGiulian, Midtbø Win 2011 SCS Open National Championships". Archived from the original on Sep 11, 2018.
  29. ↑ "European Youth Cup 2005: male youth A lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 15, 2019.
  30. ↑ "European Youth Cup 2006: male juniors lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 15, 2019.
  31. ↑ "European Youth Series 2007: male juniors lead". Archived from the original on June 16, 2019. Retrieved June 15, 2019.
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