Edward Oliver Wheeler
Born(1890-04-18)April 18, 1890
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
DiedMarch 19, 1962(1962-03-19) (aged 71)
Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
AllegianceCanada
Service/branchCorps of the Royal Engineers
RankBrigadier
AwardsHe was Knighted in 1943, Military Cross, Croix de Chevalier
de la Legion d'Honneur
RelationsArthur Oliver Wheeler, father,
John Oliver Wheeler, son
Other workmountain climber, surveyor

Sir Edward Oliver Wheeler MC (April 18, 1890 – March 19, 1962) was a Canadian surveyor, mountain climber and soldier. Wheeler participated in the first topographical survey of Mount Everest in 1921.[1] As a brigadier in the British Army he was appointed Surveyor General of India in 1941. He was knighted for the work he did surveying India. He was an accomplished mountain climber and on the 1921 expedition was one of the team to reach the 7000-metre North Col.

Early life

Edward Oliver Wheeler was the son of a surveyor and renowned alpinist, Arthur Oliver Wheeler a Dominion Land Surveyor, who co-founded the Alpine Club of Canada and mapped British Columbia’s Selkirk Mountains and the British Columbia-Alberta border.[2] His mother was Clara (née Macoun), daughter of Canadian botanist John Macoun. While still a teenager, he accompanied his father to the Selkirk Mountains and learned both how to climb and the Canadian method of photo-topography developed by Dr. Edouard Deville.[3] As a founding member of the Alpine Club of Canada, he guided new members on the initial climbs in the Rockies.[4]

Education

He attended Trinity College School where he was chosen Head Boy. Having finished first on the admission exams to the Royal Military College of Canada in Kingston, Ontario, he attended that university for three years from 1907 to 1910.[5] He finished first of his class in all three years at RMC.[6][7][8] In his graduating year he was the battalion sergeant major, the highest rank attainable by a gentleman cadet. He was given a choice of commissions in the British Army. He became a Royal Engineer and attended the School of Military Engineering in Chatham, UK.[9] Upon this graduation he was posted to the 1st King George V's Own Bengal Sappers and Miners.

Career

During the First World War he served with 1st King George V's Own Bengal Sappers and Miners as part of the Indian Expedition Forces in 1914 and with the same forces in Mesopotamia campaign 1916-19. He was Mentioned in Despatches 7 times for actions both in France and Mesopotamia.[10][11][12][13][14][15][16] He was awarded the Military Cross[17] and a Croix de Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur.[18]

In 1919, he was seconded to the Survey of India. During this time he was a member of the 1921 Everest reconnaissance expedition, using photographic surveying techniques.[19] His exploration of the East Rongbuk glacier led him on 3 August 1921 to realise that this provided the key to a viable route to the summit of Everest. He was one of the climbing team to reach the North Col.[20]

He married Dorothea Sophia Danielson in 1921. His son John Oliver Wheeler (1925–2015) was an award-winning Canadian geologist with the Geological Survey of Canada.

Edward came to Canada on sick leave in 1922 but returned to India in 1923. During this stay he toured Canada discussing his adventure on Everest including an address to the Empire Club of Canada.[21] In 1925 further convalescing in Canada was necessary after another operation in London. He then returned to India. He rose through the positions of superintendent (1927), director (1939) and finally to surveyor-general of India (1941–1947). He was knighted in 1943.[22]

Personal life

Upon his retirement, he returned to Canada with his wife, and lived in Lavington, near Vernon. He was active with the Alpine Club of Canada. From 1950 to 1954, Wheeler served as president of the Alpine Club of Canada. He was a life membership of the Alpine Club (UK) and a member of the American Alpine Club.

Wheeler died following a stroke.

Mountain ascents of note

Ascent Year Significance
Mount Hector and Observation Peak in Alberta, Canada 1903
Hungabee Mountain on the Alberta, British Columbia border, Canada 1909 with Val Fynn
Mount Babel in Alberta, Canada 1910 the first ascent
Mount Tupper and Mount Sir Donald in Glacier National Park in Canadian Rockies 1910 guideless climbs
Pyrenees Mountains and Lakes District in southwest Europe 1911 with his father, Arthur Oliver Wheeler
Strathcona Provincial Park on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada 1912 led the Expedition, first ascent of Elkhorn Mountain,
Mount Assiniboine on the Alberta, British Columbia border, 1920 planned, erected, and directed base camp
Mount Everest, on the Nepal, Tibet border 1921 mapped possible mountain climbing routes (e.g. northern, eastern and western sides, Tibetan Plateau and East Rongbuk Glacier) under Colonel Charles Howard-Bury

Publications

  • Wheeler, E.O. "Mt. Babel and Chimney Peak." The Canadian Alpine Journal, vol. 3, The Alpine Club of Canada. Banff, Alberta. 1911. p. 73-79.
  • Wheeler, E.O. "Mount Elkhorn, Strathcona Park." The Canadian Alpine Journal, vol. 5, The Alpine Club of Canada. Banff, Alberta. 1913. p. 44-48.
  • Wheeler, E.O. "Traverse of Terrapin and West Ridge of Magog." The Canadian Alpine Journal, vol. 12, The Alpine Club of Canada. Banff, Alberta. 1921-22. p. 53-55.
  • Wheeler, E. O. "The Photographic Survey", Mount Everest the Reconnaissance, Edward Arnold, London, 1922. p. 329-337.
  • Wheeler, E. O. "The "Canadian" Photo-topographical Method of Survey", The Royal Engineers Journal, vol. 35, The Institution of Royal Engineers, Chatham, UK , March 1922. p. 177-185.
  • Wheeler, E.O. "Mt. Everest Expedition/1921." The Canadian Alpine Journal, vol. 13. The Alpine Club of Canada. Banff, Alberta. 1923. p. 1-25.
  • Wheeler, E.O. "ACC Golden Jubilee." The Canadian Alpine Journal, vol. 39, The Alpine Club of Canada. Banff, Alberta. 1956. p. 3-24.
  • Wheeler, E. O. The Survey of India during War and Early Reconstruction 1939-1946, The Surveyor General of India, Dehra Dun, India, 1955.

References

  1. ↑ Canadian geographer conquered Mount Everest in ‘epic quest’ National Post (Canada) 13 Nov. 2011
  2. ↑ Arthur Oliver Wheeler http://www.pc.gc.ca/docs/v-g/pm-mp/lhn-nhs/wheeler_e.asp Archived 2011-06-05 at the Wayback Machine
  3. ↑ Wheeler, A. O. The Selkirk Range, Department of the Interior, Government Printing Bureau, Ottawa 1905,
  4. ↑ Report of Chief Mountaineer, Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 1 No 2, pp 329-334
  5. ↑ No. 758 Brigadier Sir Edward Oliver Wheeler, Kt MC, "Royal Military College of Canada Review, Log of the Stone Frigate", Kingston, Ontario,1963
  6. ↑ Report of the Militia Council for the Dominion of Canada for the Fiscal Year Ending March 31 1908, Printed by Order of Parliament, Ottawa 1909
  7. ↑ Report of the Militia Council for the Dominion of Canada for the Fiscal Year Ending March 31 1909, Printed by Order of Parliament, Ottawa 1909
  8. ↑ Report of the Militia Council for the Dominion of Canada for the Fiscal Year Ending March 31 1910, Printed by Order of Parliament, Ottawa 1910
  9. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 28409, 23 August 1910
  10. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 29072, 16 February 1915
  11. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 29200, 18 June 1915
  12. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 29422, 31 December 1915
  13. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 29789, 17 October 1916
  14. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 30867, 23 August 1918
  15. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 31195, 18 February 1919
  16. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 31386, 3 June 1919
  17. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 29438, 11 January 1916
  18. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 29486, 24 February 1916
  19. ↑ McMillan, Margaret, "Risk Taking", Massey Lecture Series, Victoria, British Columbia. broadcast on Ideas, August 15 3016,9:00 p.m. EST. CBC Radio
  20. ↑ Wade Davis - Into the silence, Vintage Books, London, 2012.
  21. ↑ "The Mount Everest Expedition".
  22. ↑ Recorded in The Gazette (London Gazette), issue 35841, 1 January 1943

Further reading

  • In Memoriam. The Canadian Alpine Journal. Vol. 45. The Alpine Club of Canada. Banff, Alberta. 1962. p. 160-163.
  • Wheeler, A.O. "The Alpine Club of Canada in Strathcona Park." The Canadian Alpine Journal. Vol. 5. The Alpine Club of Canada. Banff, Alberta. 1913. p. 82-95.
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