Riccardo Tisci
Riccardo Tisci with Naomi Campbell in 2010
Born (1974-08-01) 1 August 1974
Taranto, Apulia, Italy
Alma materCentral Saint Martins
Years active1999–present
Labels

Riccardo Tisci (Italian pronunciation: [rikˈkardo ˈtiʃʃi]; born 1974)[1][2] is an Italian fashion designer. He studied in Italy at the Design Istituto d’Arte Applicata in Cantù until the age of 17, and then graduated from London's Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 1999. In 2005, Tisci was creative director for Givenchy Women's haute couture and ready-to-wear lines. In May 2008 he was additionally menswear and accessories designer of the Givenchy men's division. In March 2018, he was appointed chief creative officer of Burberry, succeeding Christopher Bailey.[3]

Tisci's use of Gothic touches (dark, languid dresses for fall couture) and space-age minimalism (one ready-to-wear show featured white-clad models drifting around a sterile-white sphere) have brought mixed and inconsistent reviews.

Early life and education

Tisci was born in Taranto and raised in Como.[4] He graduated from London's Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 1999.

Career

Early beginnings

Upon graduation, Tisci worked for companies such as Puma, Antonio Berardi and Coccapani[5] before signing a three-year contract with Ruffo Research, a company that has helped launch the careers of several fashion designers, such as Sophia Kokosalaki.[6]

Upon the expiration of his contract in July 2004, Tisci spent time living in India, where he began to work on his own collection. In September 2004, during the Milan Fashion Week, Tisci debuted his first Riccardo Tisci Collection for Fall 2005/2006 in an off-calendar show.[6]

Givenchy, 2005–2017

In February 2005, Tisci was appointed as the creative director of the haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories lines for Givenchy.[7] Brought to Givenchy by LVMH COO Antonio Belloni and Givenchy CEO Marco Gobbetti, Gobbetti called Tisci a "perfect fit for us... He [Tisci] has an elegance that is very modern, very contemporary and romantic at the same time".

Tisci presented his first Givenchy haute couture collection in July 2005 during the Fashion Week in Paris.[8]

Tisci, under Givenchy, designed the costumes for Madonna's Sticky & Sweet Tour in 2008, following Jean Paul Gaultier and Dolce & Gabbana. In 2009, for the encore of the tour he designed another costume for the tour's opening song Candy Shop.

In February 2017 Tisci stepped down as creative director of Givenchy, "I now wish to focus on my personal interests and passions."[9]

Burberry, 2018–2022

In 2018, Tisci was named by Burberry to replace Christopher Bailey as the brand's chief creative officer.[10] His tenure lasted through to September 2022 when it was announced that Tisci would be replaced at the helm of Burberry's creative efforts by English designer Daniel Lee.[11]

Style

Unlike the designers before him who succeeded Mr. Givenchy himself, Tisci has had particular success in haute couture, where he asserts "When I arrived we had five customers. Now we have 29".[12] Riccardo Tisci's runway presentations are highly stylized in terms of architecture and space. Tisci says of this: "My way of showing is very melancholic... I love romanticism and sensuality".[12]

For the Givenchy Fall-Winter 2010 collection,[13] he included a new model, Lea T, a transgender woman from Brazil, his longtime personal assistant.

Collaborations

Throughout his career, Tisci's numerous connections and relationships have enabled him to collaborate with well-known artists on various projects:

  • 2008—Was invited to curate the issue 8 of A-Anna Magazine curated by.
  • 2010—Celebrated the end of the exhibit The artist is present at a dinner for Marina Abramović; afterwards, she was chosen to appear in a campaign for Spring-Summer 2013 of Givenchy.
  • 2011—Guest-edited Visionaire's RELIGION issue.
  • 2011—Collaborated with the perfumer Francois Demachy to make the perfume Le Dahlia Noir.
  • 2011—Curated issue #8 of A Magazine, in which he featured artwork by Ray Caesar as a source of his creative inspiration.[14]
  • 2013—Dressed the singer Rihanna for her Diamond World Tour.
  • 2014—Collaborated with Beyoncé and Jay-Z for the On the Run Tour.
  • 2014—Collaborated with Nike to create a series of Air Force 1 shoes.
  • 2016—Launched a 30 piece sportswear collaboration with Nike called NikeLab x RT: Training Redefined, aimed at Olympic athletes for the 2016 Summer Olympics as everyday gym users.[15]
  • 2018—Collaborated with NikeLab again, creating a fictional basketball team's apparel and footwear.[16]

In addition to his position at Givenchy, Tisci has collaborated with the choreographers Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui and Damien Jalet on the costume design of the orchestral ballet Boléro by Maurice Ravel at the Opéra Garnier.

Italian model Mariacarla Boscono often appears in his runway shows and ad campaigns, owing possibly to the fact that Tisci has had a friendship with her since before his days at Givenchy. Tisci also collaborated with American rappers Jay-Z and Kanye West to create the cover for Watch the Throne, as well as the covers for singles H•A•M and Otis. He has also collaborated again with Kanye West for his label GOOD Music on their album Cruel Summer.

References

  1. ↑ "Givenchy Fashion Shows: Designer Directory on". Style.com. Archived from the original on December 12, 2008. Retrieved 2012-01-09.
  2. ↑ "Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell e le altre: parata di star al compleanno di Riccardo Tisci". oggi.it. Archived from the original on August 10, 2014. Retrieved 2015-04-30.
  3. ↑ "Burberry names Riccardo Tisci to replace star designer Bailey". Reuters. March 1, 2018. Retrieved 2018-03-01.
  4. ↑ Miles Socha (April 12, 2010), Riccardo Tisci: The Self-Made Man Women's Wear Daily.
  5. ↑ Miles Socha (April 12, 2010), Riccardo Tisci: The Self-Made Man Women's Wear Daily.
  6. 1 2 "The New Man at Givenchy". Vogue. UK edition. 1 March 2005. Archived from the original on 10 February 2007.
  7. ↑ "Givenchy official site - GIVENCHY Paris". www.givenchy.com. Retrieved 1 March 2018.
  8. ↑ The new man at Givenchy March 1, 2005, Vogue.co.uk
  9. ↑ "Creative director Riccardo Tisci leaves Givenchy". the Guardian. 2017-02-02. Retrieved 2022-05-09.
  10. ↑ Samanta Conti (March 1, 2018), Burberry Taps Riccardo Tisci as Chief Creative Officer Women's Wear Daily.
  11. ↑ "Burberry Names Daniel Lee Chief Creative Officer". The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 2022-09-28.
  12. 1 2 Horyn, Cathy (February 28, 2007). "The Q & A: Riccardo Tisci".
  13. ↑ "Tisci's Trans Europe Express... Fashionair Paused". Wwd.com. 2010-05-07. Retrieved 2012-01-09.
  14. ↑ "Ray Caesar in a Magazine". jonathanlevinegallery.com. Archived from the original on 20 October 2011. Retrieved 13 January 2022.
  15. ↑ Cristobal, Sarah (2016-04-18). "Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci Designs for Nike". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved 2016-04-27.
  16. ↑ "Riccardo Tisci & Nike's New Collab Is a Flex On-and-Off the Court". Highsnobiety. 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
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