Yoshiyuki Ogata
Ogata in 2018
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (1998-02-04) February 4, 1998
Kurume, Japan
Occupation(s)Professional sport climber and boulderer
Height171 cm (5 ft 7 in)
Weight61 kg (134 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forWinner of multiple World Cup medals
Medal record
Event 1st 2nd 3rd
World Cup 3 3 4
World Games 1 0 1
World Cup (Season)
Third place2019Bouldering
Winner2021Bouldering
Winner2022Bouldering
Asian Championships
Gold medal – first place2016Bouldering
Silver medal – second place2017Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place2017Lead
Silver medal – second place2019Combined
Silver medal – second place2022Bouldering
Silver medal – second place2022Lead
Asian Cup (Season)
Winner2017Lead
World Games
Gold medal – first place2017 WrocławBouldering
Bronze medal – third place2022 BirminghamBouldering

Yoshiyuki Ogata (緒方 良行 Ogata Yoshiyuki, born February 4, 1998) is a Japanese professional competition climber and boulderer. He has won multiple medals in competition bouldering at IFSC Climbing World Cup events,[1] including gold medals at Vail in 2019[2] and at Innsbruck in 2021.[3] Ogata won the overall IFSC Men's Bouldering title for the 2021 and 2022 seasons[4][5] and finished third overall in 2019.[1]

Early life and youth competitions

Born in Kurume, Fukuoka prefecture,[6] Ogata began bouldering at age 10 after he saw the sport on television.[7] At age 17, he won the lead competition at the 2015 Japan Youth National Championships,[8] as well as the bouldering competitions at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships[9] and the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships[10] in the Male Youth A (age 15–17) category. He won another bouldering gold medal as well as a combined silver medal at the World Youth Championships in 2017 in the Male Junior (age 17 to 19) category.[11]

Competition climbing

Ogata began competing in senior competitions at age 16,[7] entering the Chongqing and Laval World Cups in 2014.[1] At age 18, he won the gold medal in men's bouldering event at the 2016 IFSC Climbing Asian Championships, and collected a silver in bouldering and bronze in lead the following year.[1] Ogata won gold at the men's bouldering event at the 2017 World Games, where he qualified as the 2016 Asian champion.[12] He made his first World Cup podium finish with a bronze medal at the Vail World Cup in 2017,.[13] Ogata won his first World Cup event in bouldering at Vail in 2019[2] and won his second at Innsbruck in 2021.[3] At the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Ogata advanced to the men's final in lead, finishing 7th overall.[14] In 2022, Ogata made the finals in all six IFSC World Cup bouldering events, taking home one gold, two silver, and two bronze medals, and winning the overall title.

Climbing World Championships

Youth[1]

Discipline 2014
Youth A
2015
Youth A
2016
Juniors
2017
Juniors
Lead 13 7 - 1
Bouldering - 1 19 1
Speed - - - -
Combined - - - 2

Adult[1]

Discipline 2018 2019 2021
Lead 31 - 7
Bouldering 15 14 8
Speed 110 - -
Combined 29 - -

World Cup podiums

Bouldering[1]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
201711
2019112
2021112
20221225
2023 1 1
Total33511

See also

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 "YOSHIYUKI OGATA". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved September 24, 2021.
  2. 1 2 "History is Made in Vail: A Dark Horse and a Season Sweep". Rock & Ice. June 11, 2019. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  3. 1 2 Browne, Ken (June 26, 2021). "Janja Garnbret and Team Japan storm to victory at Innsbruck Sport Climbing World Cup". olympics.com. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  4. "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: BOULDER MEN". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved September 23, 2021.
  5. "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022: BOULDER MEN". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved July 16, 2022.
  6. "緒方 良行" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  7. 1 2 "Friday Feat: One-Pinky Pull-Up". GymClimber. May 7, 2021. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  8. "クライミング・日本ユース選手権2015" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  9. Murdoch, Shane (August 31, 2015). "Arco 2015, Day Four: Bouldering Results and Canadians Ready for Lead Comp". Gripped. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  10. "IFSC クライミング・アジアユース選手権 プトラジャヤ 2015" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  11. "IFSC Youth World Championships 2017 Report". Gripped. August 7, 2018. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  12. "The best climbing photos of the Wroclaw World Games 2017". Planet Mountain. July 26, 2017. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  13. "Indoor Weekly: Watch Vail World Cup 2017 Highlights". Gripped. June 6, 2018. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  14. Houston, Michael (September 21, 2021). "Schubert and Seo win lead golds on final day of IFSC Climbing World Championships". inside the games. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
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