2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
---|---|
Organiser | IFSC |
Edition | 35th |
Events | 18
|
Locations | |
Dates | 21 April – 24 September 2023 |
Lead | |
Men | Sorato Anraku |
Women | Jessica Pilz |
Team | Japan |
Boulder | |
Men | Sorato Anraku |
Women | Natalia Grossman |
Team | Japan |
Speed | |
Men | Veddriq Leonardo |
Women | Natalia Kałucka |
Team | Indonesia |
The 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 35th edition of the international competition climbing series organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 18 events: six bouldering, six lead, and six speed events. The series begins on 23 April in Hachioji, Japan with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 24 September in Wujiang, China.
The top 3 in each competition receive medals, and the overall winners are awarded trophies. At the end of the season, an overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event.
Scheduling
The IFSC announced the 2023 World Cup schedule in September 2022.[1]
Overview
No. | Location | D | G | Gold | Silver | Bronze | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hachioji 21–23 April |
B | M | Mejdi Schalck | 2T3z 7 7 | Hannes Van Duysen | 1T3z 2 11 | Paul Jenft | 1T3z 3 3 |
W | Brooke Raboutou | 3T3z 6 6 | Hannah Meul | 1T3z 1 8 | Anon Matsufuji | 0T3z 0 7 | |||
2 | Seoul 28–30 April[Note 1][2] |
B | M | Mejdi Schalck | 2T3z 2 7 | Tomoa Narasaki | 2T3z 6 10 | Chon Jong-won | 2T2z 2 2 |
W | Miho Nonaka | 2T3z 20 22 | Oriane Bertone | 2T2z 4 3 | Brooke Raboutou | 2T2z 10 7 | |||
S | M | Veddriq Leonardo | 5.01 | Long Jinbao | 5.12 | Wang Xinshang | 5.11 | ||
W | Aleksandra Mirosław | 6.25 | Natalia Kałucka | 6.67 | Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi | 6.60 | |||
3 | Jakarta 6–7 May |
S | M | Raharjati Nursamsa | 5.11 | Wang Xinshang | 5.14 | Kiromal Katibin | 6.34 |
W | Aleksandra Mirosław | 6.43 | Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi | 6.52 | Aleksandra Kałucka | 6.64 | |||
4 | Salt Lake City 19–21 May |
B | M | Tomoa Narasaki | 4T4z 6 5 | Sorato Anraku | 4T4z 12 6 | Toby Roberts | 3T4z 8 10 |
W | Natalia Grossman | 4T4z 5 5 | Oriane Bertone | 2T4z 3 6 | Brooke Raboutou | 2T3z 4 10 | |||
S | M | Veddriq Leonardo | 4.95 | Wu Peng | 6.99 | Kiromal Katibin | 4.98 | ||
W | Aleksandra Mirosław | 6.43 | Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi | 6.82 | Deng Lijuan | 6.77 | |||
5 | Prague 2–4 June |
B | M | Lee Do-hyun | 4T4z 5 5 | Adam Ondra | 4T4z 13 9 | Mejdi Schalck | 3T4z 3 6 |
W | Oriane Bertone | 3T4z 4 5 | Janja Garnbret | 3T4z 6 7 | Flavy Cohaut | 2T3z 6 12 | |||
6 | Brixen 9–11 June |
B | M | Toby Roberts | 3T4z 10 7 | Lee Do-hyun | 2T4z 3 4 | Yoshiyuki Ogata | 2T4z 5 6 |
W | Natalia Grossman | 4T4z 12 12 | Seo Chae-hyun | 3T4z 3 9 | Staša Gejo | 3T4z 5 6 | |||
7 | Innsbruck 14–18 June |
B | M | Sorato Anraku | 3T3z 11 9 | Meichi Narasaki | 3T3z 15 11 | Sam Avezou | 2T2z 4 3 |
W | Janja Garnbret | 4T4z 4 4 | Natalia Grossman | 2T4z 2 11 | Miho Nonaka | 2T4z 2 13 | |||
L | M | Sascha Lehmann | 44+ | Alexander Megos | 44+ | Jakob Schubert | 42+ | ||
W | Janja Garnbret | 39+ | Ai Mori | 33+ | Jessica Pilz | 25+ | |||
8 | Villars 30 June–2 July |
L | M | Jakob Schubert | 42+ | Adam Ondra | 41+ | Alexander Megos | 40 |
W | Janja Garnbret | TOP | Jessica Pilz | 43+ | Brooke Raboutou | 43 | |||
S | M | Long Jianguo | 5.26 | Zhang Liang | FALL | Ryo Omasa | 5.30 | ||
W | Natalia Kałucka | 6.55 | Emma Hunt | 8.37 | Deng Lijuan | 6.49 | |||
9 | Chamonix 7–9 July |
L | M | Toby Roberts | TOP | Sam Avezou | 50 | Sorato Anraku | 48 |
W | Jain Kim | 43+ | Nonoha Kume | 38+ | Hélène Janicot | 38+ | |||
S | M | Rahmad Adi Mulyono | 5.01 | Rishat Khaibullin | 5.05 | Raharjati Nursamsa | 5.323 | ||
W | Rajiah Sallsabillah | 6.97 | Victoire Andrier | 9.59 | Nurul Iqamah | 7.16 | |||
10 | Briançon 14–15 July |
L | M | Sorato Anraku | TOP | Taisei Homma | 49+ | Satone Yoshida | 49+ |
W | Vita Lukan | 46 | Eliska Adamovska | 44+ | Manon Hily | 44+ | |||
11 | Koper 8–9 September |
L | M | Sorato Anraku | TOP | Jesse Gruper | 42+ | Alberto Ginés López | 23 |
W | Janja Garnbret | TOP | Ai Mori | 44+ | Vita Lukan | 40+ | |||
12 | Wujiang 22–24 September |
L | M | Sorato Anraku | 39+ | Shion Omata | 30+ | Taisei Homma | 26+ |
W | Ai Mori | 36+ | Jessica Pilz | 31+ | Natsuki Tanii | 26+ | |||
S | M | Peng Wu | 5.05 | Jingjie Huang | 5.10 | Ryo Omasa | 5.11 | ||
W | Deng Lijuan | 6.58 | Natalia Kałucka | 6.69 | Di Niu | 6.89 | |||
- ↑ Seoul bouldering results based on semifinal standings after finals were canceled due to rain delay.
Bouldering
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.
Men
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[3]
Rank | Name | Points | Hachioji | Seoul | Salt Lake City | Prague | Brixen | Innsbruck |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sorato Anraku | 3350 | 5. 545 | (29. 52*) | 2. 805 | 7. 455 | 5. 545 | 1. 1000 |
2 | Lee Do-hyun | 3130 | 7. 455 | 4. 610 | (39. 15.3*) | 1. 1000 | 2. 805 | 14. 260 |
3 | Tomoa Narasaki | 3000 | 10. 350 | 2. 805 | 1. 1000 | 10. 350 | 6. 495 | (11. 325) |
4 | Toby Roberts | 2710 | (25. 89.5*) | 8. 415 | 3. 690 | 15. 240 | 1. 1000 | 9. 365* |
5 | Mejdi Schalck | 2690 | 1. 1000 | 1. 1000 | (-) | 3. 690 | - | - |
6 | Yoshiyuki Ogata | 2335 | 13. 280 | 12. 300 | (16. 220) | 4. 610 | 3. 690 | 7. 455 |
7 | Chon Jong-won | 2275 | 6. 495 | 3. 690 | 14. 260 | (16. 220) | 16. 220 | 4. 610 |
8 | Hannes Van Duysen | 2140 | 2. 805 | 13. 280 | 6. 495 | 13. 280 | (-) | 13. 280 |
9 | Meichi Narasaki | 1945 | 8. 415 | (85. 0) | 25. 89.5* | 35. 25.5* | 4. 610 | 2. 805 |
10 | Yannick Flohé | 1750.5 | 11. 325 | 7. 455 | (-) | 5. 545 | 8. 415 | 45. 10.5* |
Women
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[3]
Rank | Name | Points | Hachioji | Seoul | Salt Lake City | Prague | Brixen | Innsbruck |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Natalia Grossman | 3527.5 | 8. 397.5* | 11. 325 | 1. 1000 | (-) | 1. 1000 | 2. 805 |
2 | Miho Nonaka | 3005 | 11. 325 | 1. 1000 | 9. 380 | 4. 610 | (-) | 3. 690 |
3 | Brooke Raboutou | 2990 | 1. 1000 | 3. 690 | 3. 690 | (-) | - | 4. 610 |
4 | Oriane Bertone | 2649.5 | 31. 39.5* | 2. 805 | 2. 805 | 1. 1000 | (-) | - |
5 | Ayala Kerem | 1995 | 4. 610 | 6. 495 | (-) | 13. 280 | 4. 610 | - |
6 | Staša Gejo | 1893 | 27. 68* | 10. 350 | (-) | 5. 545 | 3. 690 | 15. 240 |
7 | Oceana Mackenzie | 1880 | (35. 25.5*) | 13. 280 | 12. 300 | 7. 455 | 5. 545 | 12. 300 |
8 | Janja Garnbret | 1805 | (-) | - | - | 2. 805 | - | 1. 1000 |
9 | Anastasia Sanders | 1765 | 37. 20* | 5. 545 | 4. 610 | (-) | 15. 240 | 10. 350 |
10 | Seo Chae-hyun | 1744.5 | 14. 250 | (29. 52*) | 25. 89.5* | 8. 415 | 2. 805 | 18. 185 |
* = Joint place with another athlete
Speed
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.
Men
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2023:[4]
Rank | Name | Points | Seoul | Jakarta | Salt Lake City | Villars | Chamonix | Wujiang |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Veddriq Leonardo | 3470 | 1. 1000 | 5. 545 | 1. 1000 | 5. 545 | 9. 380 | |
2 | Wu Peng | 2860 | 6. 495 | 4. 610 | 2. 805 | 6. 495 | 7. 455 | |
3 | Long Jianguo | 2510 | 4. 610 | 34. 30 | 5. 545 | 1. 1000 | 11. 325 | |
4 | Rahmad Adi Mulyono | 2460 | 10. 350 | 9. 380 | 9. 380 | 10. 350 | 1. 1000 | |
5 | Samuel Watson | 2445 | 9. 380 | 6. 495 | 4. 610 | 4. 610 | 10. 350 | |
6 | Long Jinbao | 2255 | 2. 805 | 12. 300 | 7. 455 | 13. 280 | 8. 415 | |
7 | Wang Xianshang | 2080 | 3. 690 | 2. 805 | 15. 240 | 15. 240 | 24. 105 | |
8 | Raharjati Nursamsa | 1697 | - | 1. 1000 | - | 53. 7 | 3. 690 | |
9 | Matteo Zurloni | 1600 | 8. 415 | 13. 280 | 13. 280 | 11. 325 | 12. 300 | |
10 | Jun Yasukawa | 1545 | 17. 205 | 7. 455 | 40. 15 | 14. 260 | 4. 610 | |
Women
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2023:[4]
Rank | Name | Points | Seoul | Jakarta | Salt Lake City | Villars | Chamonix | Wujiang |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Natalia Kałucka | 3390 | 2. 805 | 6. 495 | 5. 545 | 1. 1000 | 5. 545 | |
2 | Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi | 3225 | 3. 690 | 2. 805 | 2. 805 | 5. 545 | 9. 380 | |
3 | Rajiah Sallsabillah | 3015 | 6. 495 | 8. 415 | 4. 610 | 6. 495 | 1. 1000 | |
4 | Aleksandra Mirosław | 3000 | 1. 1000 | 1. 1000 | 1. 1000 | - | - | |
5 | Emma Hunt | 2665 | 7. 455 | 7. 455 | 6. 495 | 2. 805 | 7. 455 | |
6 | Aleksandra Kałucka | 2555 | 4. 610 | 3. 690 | 9. 380 | 9. 380 | 6. 495 | |
7 | Deng Lijuan | 2535 | 5. 545 | 4. 610 | 3. 690 | 3. 690 | - | |
8 | Nurul Iqamah | 2125 | 18. 185 | 9. 380 | 7. 455 | 8. 415 | 3. 690 | |
9 | Niu Di | 1880 | 9. 380 | 5. 545 | 11. 325 | 10. 350 | 13. 280 | |
10 | Jeong Ji-min | 1700 | 8. 415 | 11. 325 | 10. 350 | 14. 260 | 10. 350 |
* = Joint place with another athlete
Lead
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.
Men
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[5]
Rank | Name | Points | Innsbruck | Villars | Chamonix | Briançon | Koper | Wujiang |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sorato Anraku | 4300 | 4. 610 | (6. 495) | 3. 690 | 1. 1000 | 1. 1000 | 1. 1000 |
2 | Alexander Megos | 2650 | 2. 805 | 3. 690 | 4. 610 | - | 5. 545 | - |
3 | Taisei Homma | 2455 | 9. 380 | 13. 280 | 12. 300 | 2. 805 | (13. 270*) | 3. 690 |
4 | Shion Omata | 2445 | 12. 300 | 8. 415 | 9. 380 | 5. 545 | (15. 240) | 2. 805 |
5 | Toby Roberts | 2440 | 16. 220 | 4. 610 | 1. 1000 | - | 4. 610 | - |
6 | Satone Yoshida | 2080 | 6. 495 | 12. 300 | 11. 325 | 3. 690 | 13. 270* | (14. 260) |
7 | Yoshiyuki Ogata | 2065 | (18. 185) | 17. 205 | 14. 260 | 4. 610 | 9. 380 | 4. 610 |
8 | Sascha Lehmann | 1940 | 1. 1000 | 18. 185 | - | - | 12. 300 | 7. 455 |
9 | Masahiro Higuchi | 1720 | 7. 455 | 21. 145 | (26. 84) | 6. 495 | 11. 325 | 12. 300 |
10 | Jakob Schubert | 1690 | 3. 690 | 1. 1000 | - | - | - | - |
Women
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[5]
Rank | Name | Points | Innsbruck | Villars | Chamonix | Briançon | Koper | Wujiang |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jessica Pilz | 3235 | 3. 690 | 2. 805 | 4. 610 | - | 11. 325 | 2. 805 |
2 | Janja Garnbret | 3000 | 1. 1000 | 1. 1000 | - | - | 1. 1000 | - |
3 | Vita Lukan | 2725 | (17. 205) | 13. 280 | 7. 455 | 1. 1000 | 3. 690 | 12. 300 |
4 | Ai Mori | 2610 | 2. 805 | - | - | - | 2. 805 | 1. 1000 |
5 | Natsuki Tanii | 2525 | (26. 84) | 6. 495 | 9. 380 | 8. 415 | 5. 545 | 3. 690 |
6 | Jain Kim | 2485 | 11. 325 | 7. 455 | 1. 1000 | 14. 250 | (20. 155) | 7. 455 |
7 | Seo Chae-hyun | 2430 | 5. 545 | 4. 610 | 8. 415 | 14. 250 | 4. 610 | - |
8 | Mia Krampl | 2275 | 6. 495 | 5. 545 | 6. 495 | - | 8. 415 | 11. 325 |
9 | Nonoha Kume | 2090 | - | 16. 220 | 2. 805 | 4. 610 | 7. 455 | - |
10 | Molly Thompson-Smith | 1885 | 9. 380 | 9. 380 | 12. 300 | 5. 545 | 13. 280 | - |
* = Joint place with another athlete
Season podium table
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Japan (JPN) | 2 | 1 | 2 | 5 |
2 | United States (USA) | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 |
3 | Austria (AUT) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
4 | Slovenia (SLO) | 0 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
5 | Germany (GER) | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
South Korea (KOR) | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 | |
Totals (6 entries) | 4 | 4 | 4 | 12 |
Medal table
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Japan (JPN) | 7 | 8 | 9 | 24 |
2 | Indonesia (INA) | 5 | 2 | 5 | 12 |
3 | Slovenia (SLO) | 5 | 1 | 1 | 7 |
4 | Poland (POL) | 4 | 2 | 1 | 7 |
5 | China (CHN) | 3 | 5 | 4 | 12 |
6 | France (FRA) | 3 | 4 | 6 | 13 |
7 | United States (USA) | 3 | 3 | 3 | 9 |
8 | South Korea (KOR) | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
9 | Great Britain (GBR) | 2 | 0 | 1 | 3 |
10 | Austria (AUT) | 1 | 2 | 2 | 5 |
11 | Switzerland (SUI) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
12 | Czech Republic (CZE) | 0 | 3 | 0 | 3 |
13 | Germany (GER) | 0 | 2 | 1 | 3 |
14 | Belgium (BEL) | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
Kazakhstan (KAZ) | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 | |
16 | Serbia (SRB) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
Spain (ESP) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 | |
Totals (17 entries) | 36 | 36 | 36 | 108 |
See also
References
- 1 2 "IFSC CALENDAR 2023: THE START OF A NEW OLYMPIC QUALIFICATION PATH" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 12 September 2023. Retrieved 15 September 2022.
- ↑ Pardy, Aaron (30 April 2023). "Japan and France Take Gold at Boulder World Cup in Seoul". Gripped. Retrieved 1 May 2023.
- 1 2 "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Boulder". Retrieved 2023-04-24.
- 1 2 "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Speed". Retrieved 2023-05-07.
- 1 2 "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Lead". Retrieved 2023-06-24.